After over a year of using the Sairui Siberia Raw, I was finally driven to despair by its unreliability—specifically, its brittle plastic construction. It’s no secret that these headphones are prone to breaking, especially around the telescopic rods. Even the newer models like the Siberia 100/150 have their issues, though they seem more durable. The original Mito model had problems too, and the online community has noted that some people swapped the standard Siberia Raw for the Prism version, which features USB connectivity and RGB lighting instead of the traditional 3.5mm jack. While RGB might sound cool, it’s not always ideal, especially if you’re looking to avoid light pollution. For my setup, I’ve been considering using a PS4 controller since my monitor lacks built-in speakers.
To get started on repairing my Siberia Raw, I gathered the necessary tools: a decent screwdriver set and an electric soldering iron. Aunt Zhang, a helpful friend, recommended avoiding the S2 version as it didn’t make much of a difference at home.
The main issue with the Siberia Raw is the fragility of its telescopic arms, which often snap off after some use. While 502 glue might offer a temporary fix, it’s far from ideal because once the part breaks again, there’s no easy way to replace it. Instead, I decided to take matters into my own hands and perform a DIY repair.
First, I gently pulled away a small piece of the knitted fabric covering the ear cups to expose the gap beneath. Next, I carefully unscrewed the ear cushions, which had become soiled over time. Unlike the Siberia 100/150, where the leather cushions are easier to keep clean, the knit material here collects dirt quickly. Once the cushions were off, I could see the four screws securing the drivers and used a soldering iron to detach the wires connecting them.
Continuing further, I removed the screws underneath and lifted the white cover plate to reveal another gray lid held in place by three additional screws. Beneath this, I found the cable running through the earpiece, along with a small stainless steel pin securing the telescopic arm. Carefully removing the broken telescopic rod, I made sure not to lose any components.
Next, I unscrewed the two edge-mounted bolts on the headband and extracted the cable. I inserted a functioning telescopic rod into the positioning pin, ensuring the cable was properly seated in its slot. Finally, I placed the gray cover back over the positioning pin, making sure everything was aligned correctly.
With the white cover reinstalled, I resoldered the driver connections and reattached the ear cushions. Don’t forget to include a thin circular sponge between the cushion and the frame to ensure a snug fit. Once tightened, the maintenance was complete.
Experience: This headset is notoriously finicky. Aside from replacing the entire earphone assembly, there isn’t a foolproof repair method. The knitted fabric ear cushions are particularly troublesome—they get dirty easily and are hard to clean thoroughly. As for the telescopic arms, they remain the weakest link. If anyone else has encountered similar issues, feel free to share your experiences. Repairing these headphones requires patience and care, but sometimes it's worth the effort to breathe new life into an otherwise problematic device.
[Attached photos show each step of the process, including the tools used and the final result.]
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